Cutting Barrel Steel Pipework For new cylinder

[chloeradhsaw]

I have a hot water cylinder which has low carbon steel pipework to it - I have tried to add some pictures

I need to replace the cylinder because it is leaking and I am not able to find anyone who is comfortable to work on this this because it is barrel steel - Has anyone worked on this kind of system before?

1) It i try and put some stillstons on it am I likely to get the nut to crack and the thread to remain intact? This looks like heavy duty commercial pipework so I am nervous but I need to get this reduced to copper so I can replace the cylinder - I have found a shop which has black iron fittings that can thread onto a 2inch pipe and reduce it but it depends on geting the but off in tact

2) If I have to cut the steel pipework without a thread can I use a Priomfit compression nut? Are these leak proof and reliable for water?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Tbh do you have much experience in iron as it’s one of them, what type of property is it ?

 

[chloeradhsaw]

Tbh do you have much experience in iron as it’s one of them, what type of property is it ?

Hi 0 Its a domestic house - Have only ever worked with copper and soldered copper - Never worked on iron pipework

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Easiest way then would be to undo the unions and adapt from copper from then remember if it measures 11/4 od it’s 1” tube so need 1” make irons etc

 

[chloeradhsaw]

How likely is it the steel pipe cracks below when i am exerting force to undo the nut ? I will heat it and use stillsons of bottom of the union but will this crack or twist up the pipework? If the pipe splits how do you fix it as I cant solder onto steep so thats why i looked at primofit optoins

 

[ShaunCorbs]

How likely is it the steel pipe cracks below when i am exerting force to undo the nut ? I will heat it and use stillsons of bottom of the union but will this crack or twist up the pipework? If the pipe splits how do you fix it as I cant solder onto steep so thats why i looked at primofit optoins

You will have to hold against but will only snap if it’s weak so needs replacing

 

[chloeradhsaw]

Here is a better picture so you can get a sense of how frightened I am !!!

The cylinder has flow on top right, cold water in on bottom right and return on bottom left with hot water draw off on top of the cylinder

 

[SimonG]

Same as Shaun, take back to a joint and adapt to copper.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Don’t do the job then say sorry out of my comfort zone etc

 

[Chuck]

I wouldn't use Primofit to make a direct copper-steel join in the pipework that is feeds CW to the tank or draws DHW from it because of galvanic corrosion. Use a purpose designed union or a brass transition section. It's fairly common to use brass-bodied valves for the transition, which are just about long enough.

TBH, this doesn't look like a DIY job if you don't have experience of, and the tools for, steel pipework. Try to find someone who does 'domestic and commercial' work rather than just 'domestic'.

 

[SimonG]

Failing what Chuck said above, an agricultural engineer may be the way to go. Lots of steel on farms.

 

[Timmy D]

I deal with this all the time. I wouldn’t use primofits unless zero other options.

Unwind from a joint and convert. It’s no particularly difficult but old steel does break and you need a back up plan, just in case.

Here’s one I found last week while replacing a bath for shower. Steel pipe rusting from the outside. Had to dig out back to a joint and replace.

Out of interest, what area of London are you?

 

[chloeradhsaw]

Yes the above is def steel barrell pipe - Want to say thank you to this forum - I managed to angle grind the cylinder out and then blow torch the connectors and they came out easily! Was amazed.

Have now bought a fittings to convert to copper and could not have done it without the immense knowledge on this forum.

I am in finchley - Now need to find someone to install a vented indirect cylinder - That certainly looks and sounds easier then messing with barrel pipework