Discuss Should I leave access for a shower trap? in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at PlumbersForums.net

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edwardk

I've fitted the waste pipe for the shower and connected it to a flexible grey pipe and then the shower trap.

I was about to fit the shower tray but thought I might need access to the trap and under the shower after fitting.

So I thought I'd ask - what access do I need and what is the next process to get me to the tiling stage!

Here are some pics:
shower01.jpgshower02.jpg

I built some studwork to support the tray as I couldn't sink the shower trap (pipes in way).
I've filled it with some left over insulation to stop any noise.

I've glued ply to the bottom of the shower tray and planed it flush with the shower base so that when I fit the tray and you step in then it will be directly supported by the floor stud work.

I thought about cutting a section of the studwork away directly in front of the shower trap for access. Is this a good idea?

I was going to stick a flexible seal around the edge of the shower tray then slide the tray into place and use some wood glue to glue the studwork to the ply on the bottom of the tray.
When I've done this the tray will be very stuck down so I want to get it all right!

Any advice welcome!
Thanks,
Ed
 
I've normally found it very difficult to leave an access panel when doing a shower tray. Most times the floor gets tiled, and the only access to the trap is by taking the tray out or getting in by cutting the plasterboard below.

My only idea there is to use plenty of silicone on the waste when setting it in and attaching the waste to the shower tray. Thats what i do and have up to now very rarely had any problems
 
Thanks Aaron - so plenty of silicon on the trap where it meets the bottom of the tray and not leave any access.

I'll probably take my time and try and get it all right. Planning on doing this:

Add the flexible tiling strip to the 3 sides of the tray.
Get the tray in position.
Attach the trap to the bottom of the tray and screw the topside in.
(Should be able to do this with the flexi grey pipe).
Turn the cold shower tap on and let it run for 5 minutes.
Look for leaks in the kitchen ceiling....
Lift tray a little and check joints for water leaks.

Glue down - leave a moderate weight in the shower tray - come back 4 hours later and get tiling - say a few hail mary's....

Anything I've missed out or could be done better??!!
Thanks,
Ed
 
Not saying you should change your methods but I do something like the following:

1. Install tray, check for wobble/movement and fix if and as necessary.
2. Attach waste then test with around 1/2 bucket of water poured in as fast as possible.
3. Check for leaks.
4. Using small container I pour water slowly around waste and look and listen to ensure water is flowing through plug hole and not down the side of the waste.
5. Dry edges if wet, silicone edges and corner of wall, then leave till the next day.

If that was my frame and I was facing the front, I'd cut a small section out of the frame so I could check for leaks. Might be a while before water dropped through ceiling or travelled along floor then down a wall.

Missed an Our Father, Glory Be and full rosary?
 
forget the sillicon the rubbers on those traps are foolproof provided you got it in the right place sillicon will just help it slip out looking at what you have done i would take out the frame in front of the trap chances are youll never need to get at it sods law is if you dont you will and its not a lot of efort to do
 
Thanks very much for the advice - installed over weekend. Silicon should be dry by now - off to water test it....

Cut out a hand sized hole in the front which came in handy when the tray was down and I was attaching the trap - ended up a tight fit with the rubber tray seal surround.

Do you rely on the self-adhesive tape on the rubber tray seal surround or do you normally silicon that in place too?
 
Silicone - I'd never rely on tape - even worse than silicone!
 
silicone every time. once tray to wall then after tiling as well
 
Gripfill even better for tray to wall, then 785 Dow cornering for tray to tiled
 
Silicone for me, I use CT1 or plumbers gold for that sort of thing, dow corning for around the edges
 
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